($23, Schatzi Wines): I recently tasted six Beaujolais from this producer, one made without added sulfur, from three different vintages, 2016, 2017 and 2018. They were stunning across the board and demonstrated the enormous talent at the domaine. They have just under 3 acres on the slopes of Côte de Brouilly, one of the 10 crus of Beaujolais. The soil of this small mountain that emerges from the surrounding Brouilly is a distinctive blue stone, which growers there insist imparts a firmness to the wines. Ruet’s 2017 Côte de Brouilly is stunning, with a firm, but not hard, backbone. Luscious black fruit flavors balance the seeming austerity lending an exciting ying-yang to the wine. It will change your image of Beaujolais.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019