($25):  Growers in Moulin-à-Vent, the most robust of the 10 crus of Beaujolais, have embraced the concept of making wines from specific sites, just as in the Côte d’Or, their more famous neighbor in Burgundy to the north.  En Mortperay is one such site, situated on the edge of the appellation, bordering Fleurie.  More floral and elegant than you might expect for a Moulin-à-Vent at this youthful stage, it still conveys plenty of power.  Its impeccable balance, interplay of flavors, and lingering finish make it a very serious wine and hard to resist now.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 16, 2019