($28, Polaner Selections): Trapet Père et Fils, one of the great growers based in Gevery-Chambertin, makes outstanding wines from that village and neighboring villages, such as Marsannay. They also make this under-the-radar wine with an eye-catching nearly blank label with tiny letters. Unlike the vast majority of red wines from Burgundy, which are made entirely from Pinot Noir, Passetoutgrains is made from a blend of Pinot Noir and Gamay. It’s a juicy spicy thoroughly engaging wine. Though not a cerebral Burgundy that make you stop and think, it’s a perfect choice for take-out rotisserie chicken.
89 Michael Apstein May 7, 2019