($23):   Although made entirely from the Sauvignon Blanc grape, as required by regulations, Jolivet’s v never screams that grape.  Sure, you sense a bite, characteristic of the varietal, but the overall impression is one of a minty minerality with an enlivening citrus finish.  Clean and refreshing, it has substantial depth, which makes it perfect for steamed clams or hearty seafood.
90 Michael Apstein Mar 19, 2019