($28, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Bruno Giacosa was best known for his exceptional Barbaresco and Barolo, often produced from purchased grapes. It turns out that he produced excellent Barbera as well, as this 2015 shows. There’s an ongoing argument as to which is better: Barbera from Alba or from Asti? The answer to that question will wait for a future column. What’s not in dispute is how good Giacosa’s Barbera is. More polished and suave than many, it still retains the refreshing bite and acidity for which that grape is known. Ready to drink now, it’s a fine choice for the pappardelle and sausage.
89 Michael Apstein Mar 5, 2019