($24, Folio Fine Wine Partners): This must be one of the best wines selling for less than $25 a bottle in today’s market. The estate, Condado de Haza, is part of the Fernandez family’s holding in Ribera del Duero, the area which gained its D.O. largely through the efforts of the patriarch, Alejandro Fernandez. So, if anyone knows the region, it is he. This, the family’s sister estate to the more famous Tinto Pesquera, is located in a slightly cooler and rockier area, which likely accounts for its sleekness. The 2015 Crianza, made entirely from Tempranillo, is a fabulous value. It has everything — dark fruit notes, mineral-like undertones all wrapped in fine tannins that give it a suave texture. It combines power and elegance and finishes with an attractive bitter note, which to me, indicates a superb wine to complement a rich meaty dish. Lively acidity keeps it fresh throughout the meal. It should get extra points for value.
93 Michael ApsteinFeb 26, 2019