($45, Folio Fine Wine Partners): A plummy and polished Bordeaux-blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (53%), Cabernet Franc (24%), Malbec (16%), and Petit Verdot, Balbo’s Brioso is fruit-focused, yet balanced by enough acidity to keep it fresh and lively. A suave texture adds to its appeal. Despite a modest 13.5 percent stated-alcohol, it still has a hint of sweetness in the finish. As with her Ben Marco Expresivo, the wine’s stature speaks for itself and does not need the heavy bottle, which contradicts Balbo’s commitment as stated on the winery’s website, “…in our packaging by reducing the weight of our bottles to decrease our contribution to carbon footprint.”
92 Michael ApsteinJan 29, 2019