($32): Realizing the diversity of soils within Morgon, the wine producers there divided that appellation into six fairly large (averaging about 450 acres) climats, one of which is Grand Cras. This one, from Mee Godard, one of the rising stars in Morgon, comes from a single 1-acre plot of 20-year-old vines. The darker soil in Grand Cras compared to that in Corcelette, another of the Morgon climats, tells the story. A bigger and bolder wine, it has a paradoxical austerity and charm. Less accessible with firmer tannins than her Morgon Corcelette at this stage, it has a lovely firmness without a trace of hardness. Give it a few years in the cellar or open and decant it several hours before you serve it with a hearty stew this winter.
93 Michael Apstein Dec 18, 2018