($30, Folio Fine Wine Partners): Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s top producers, has shown consistently what stunningly good wines can come from that Italian island. Donnafugata’s 2016 Cerasuolo de Vittorio, a blend of Nero d’Avola and Frappato, is a delicate light to mid-weight floral red wine with charm and vivacity. Paradoxically, it has a lovely austerity and firmness, which means it’s meant for food more than sipping by itself. Its floral character and firmness work brilliantly together. This is a perfect choice for sushi or, switching continents, seafood in a light tomato-based sauce.
92 Michael Apstein Nov 6, 2018