($20): You’re excused if you’ve never heard of the Ribolla Gialla grape, which is unique to the Fruili region in northeastern Italy and adjacent Slovenia. Even most of those who have heard of the grape don’t realize that it can be used for sparkling wine as well as still. Well, here’s a head’s up — at least in Collavini’s hands, it makes a super sparkling wine. The still wine has an alluring density and attractive texture that shines in this sparkling version. Bright, yet not aggressive, acidity holds it all together. This is a bubbly to start the evening and then to carry to the table.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 28, 2018