($18): Wines, such as this one, explain the popularity of Soave. Sadly, Soave’s image tarnished over the years as industrial producers capitalized on the name’s popularity sacrificing quality along the way. Fortunately, a few producers, such as Pieropan, never wavered in their focus on producing distinctive, high-quality wines reflective of the unique volcanic soil in the hilly heart, or Classico, subzone. A serious wine — and at a remarkable price — Pieropan’s 2016 Soave Classico is clean and fresh, with a long and precise finish. A wisp of bitter almond adds to its charm and complexity. It has sufficient weight and enough backbone to hold up to substantial seafood. My advice? Buy it by the case.
92 Michael Apstein Aug 7, 2018