($25, AP Wine Imports): Jasnières, a tiny (161-acre) appellation, is well away from the river and the Loire’s northern-most outpost. Similar to Savennières, another lesser-known Loire appellation, Jasnières uses only Chenin Blanc to produce its steely, impressive white wines. Les Maison Rouges, founded almost 25 years ago, in 1994, has rapidly become one of the area’s top producers. This cuvée, Sur le Nez, named because it comes from two plots, one of which was planted over 100 years ago and a “younger” planted only 80+ years ago, that sit under the “nose” of the local rock formation. Dry and mineral-y, it has a texture that coats the mouth without being heavy. It’s a wonderfully pure and clean expression of Chenin grown on chalky/limestone soil. It’s deeper and richer than their other very fine cuvées, all of which frankly, are delicious and worth the effort to find. This is a producer to remember.
94 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2018