($22):  Vouvray is potentially one of the world’s great wines.  Made from Chenin Blanc, a grape that, like Riesling or Chardonnay, can transmit the flavors of the site beautifully.  But sadly, buying it is tricky and can be frustrating because it has a wide range of styles, from sweet to dry and riveting.  Discerning the difference from the label is often impossible.  Thankfully, Clos de Nouys, one the great, established producers in Vouvray, makes a range of styles, from dry (this one) to sweet that are clearly labeled. Steely dry, this Vouvray has glorious acidity that amplifies the wine’s delicate hints of white peaches.  The ying/yang combination of subtle fruitiness and zingy acidity makes it a versatile wine for anything from spiced Asian fare to pork loin.  Long and refined and bursting with energy, it will convert you to a Vouvray lover.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 10, 2018