($40):  Thierry Germain is one of the most talented and enthusiastic winemakers in the Loire.  He makes small quantities of outstanding individualistic reds and whites that are always worth the search.  Take this one, for example, L’Insolite (unusual).  Made from 95-year-old Chenin Blanc vines planted on silex, it conveys a hint of white flowers, minerals combined with freshness and verve. It’s both dry and riveting with the barest hint of fruitiness — an unusual combination that makes for a thrilling wine.  It’s a perfect choice for those occasions there’s a variety of food on the table because everyone has ordered something different.  Or if you just want something truly great to drink.
95 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018