($16, North Berkeley Imports; Skurnik Wines):  Though located in the heart of Provence, Les Baux de Provence, an appellation of barely 600 acres, is known for its reds, rather than its rosés.  The allowed grapes include the usual Mediterranean suspects, Grenache, Syrah, and Carignan, among others, and, perhaps surprisingly, Cabernet Sauvignon.  Cabernet in this blend can easily overwhelm, but Mas de Gourgonnier consistently gets it right, making fresh and lively reds.  The 2015, weighing in at only 13 percent stated alcohol, delivers an engaging and thoroughly enjoyable combination of light red fruit, earth and herbal notes.  Non-intrusive tannins make it easy to enjoy this summer when food calls for a lighter and lively red.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 3, 2018