($50):  Consumers mistakenly believe that all bubbly coming from Italy is Prosecco.  Not so.  There’s fine sparkling wine from Franciacorta and this stunning one reminds us not to forget Trento.  A blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, the traditional grapes of Champagne, it has a fine bead of acidity that gives it a great spine. Not boisterous or tropical, it’s finesse-filled and persistent.  The Riserva designation means it was aged a minimum of 36 months before release and helps explain is suaveness and balance.  It doesn’t shout, but you hear it very clearly.  Ideal as a traditional stand-alone celebratory drink, its brightness refreshes the palate during a meal of grilled sea bass.
93 Michael Apstein Jun 19, 2018