($10, North Berkeley Wine):  Recommending a wine for summertime consumption with the thermometer in single digits and a foot of snow of the ground may be a new definition of optimism.  But the quality/price ratio here makes me want to buy this wine before it disappears. Muscadet is overlooked, often for good reason because of the vapid ones, as a wonderful source of bright zesty light white wine.  This one should be on everyone’s radar because it has good concentration and depth along with verve and energy.  To be sure, there are not layers of flavors and opulence, but look at the price!  Its lively cutting profile makes it perfect for shellfish, such as oysters or steamed mussels, and simply grilled fish.
88 Michael Apstein Jan 23, 2018