($75, Louis Latour USA):  Simonnet-Febvre, a top-notch Chablis producer, makes classically structured Chablis — tightly wound and linear.  Their Preuses, from their own vineyards, is always one of their best wines. Preuses has the reputation of being one of the least elegant of the Chablis Grand Cru.  Not in Simonnet-Febvre’s hands and certainly not their 2014.  Their 2014 Preuses is very tight and youthful at this stage.  It actually took three days to open.  But when it did it was captivating with its paradoxical austerity and power.  This is a wine to lay down for years.  Since there’s some in my cellar, I’m betting you’ll be rewarded. 94 Michael Apstein Jan 9, 2018