($20, Quintessential):  The problem with Riesling is the “S” word — sweet.  I can’t remember the times people have told me they’d never order a Riesling because it’s sweet.  Well, some are and some aren’t.  Sadly, it’s hard to tell just from looking at the label because even some labeled “dry” aren’t.  This one is dry, with attractive simultaneous fruity and stony components.  Fresh and clean, it mineral-like austerity is not enamel-cleansing, which makes it a fine choice as an aperitif or with smoked salmon, for example, as a first course. 88 Michael Apstein Jan 2, 2018