($40, Folio Fine Wine Partners):  It’s hard to go wrong with any wine from Donnafugata, one of Sicily’s — and Italy’s — iconic producers.  With Tancredi, Donnafugata has married Nero d’Avola, an indigenous Sicilian grape, with Cabernet Sauvignon and a pinch of Tannat to produce a dense and concentrated, but balanced, wine.  Weighing in at about 14 percent stated alcohol, it has an alluring hint of bitterness in the finish.  That, along with the youthful tannins, make this muscular wine cry out for beef or lamb this winter. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 19, 2017