($23, Quintessential):  Consumers should not be put off by the incredibly confusing label because the wine is, in a word, delicious.  (The name of the producer, perhaps the single most important piece of information, is relegated to small type on the back label.)  A blend of autochthonous grapes (Aragonez, Trincadeira and Moreto), it delivers an engaging and exotic combination of dark fruit and herbal flavors with a charming rustic edge.  A ripe and dense wine, it’s not overdone and indeed, weighs in at less than 14 percent stated alcohol.  Tannins are smooth, which makes the wine an excellent choice for robust fare this winter. 90 Michael Apstein Dec 5, 2017