($20): Domaine Long-Depaquit, owned by the top-notch Beaune-based négociant, Albert Bichot, is one of the best estates in Chablis. Domaine Long-Depaquit is the sole owner of an icon of Chablis, La Moutonne, a unique Grand Cru that encompasses vines in both the vineyards of Vaudésir and Les Preuses. Equally notable — for what it is — is their village Chablis. Grand Cru it is not, nor is the price. It is an exceptional village wine, reflecting the unique flinty mineral aspect of the appellation. With good concentration, depth, and an enlivening freshness, it’s a fine expression of Chablis. It shows you need not drink Grand Cru to appreciate the wonders of Chablis. 90 Michael Apstein Nov 21, 2017