($18, Kobrand):  One tends to forget about Chiarlo’s white wines since they make such stunning reds.  Here’s one that should not be forgotten.  Not an opulent wine, this Gavi still has good depth and is piercing, mineral-y and refined.  It is cutting and stony, a perfect foil for a tomato-based seafood dish, such as swordfish in a tomato-caper. 91 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2017