($15, Montcalm Wine Importers):  Here is a wine that provides more enjoyment than the price suggests.  Wines, especially those made from the Montepulciano grape and especially from Abruzzo, the region east of Rome on the Adriatic coast, have little or no prestige, which keeps their prices depressed.  But a talented producer, such as Illuminati, transforms what could be a rough and tumble wine into one with charming rusticity, such as this one.  Not thin and anemic, Illuminati’s Spiano has good concentration, juicy fruit and that hint of rustic charm.  It’s a perfect choice for penne with a sausage-enriched tomato sauce. 88 Michael Apstein Nov 7, 2017