($42, Kobrand):  In addition to making noteworthy Barolo, Chiarlo, a top producer in Piedmont, also makes excellent wine from lesser known areas, such as Nizza.  Starting with the 2014 vintage, this wine will be labeled simply Nizza Riserva DOCG, since this small subzone of the Barbera d’Asti region was recently awarded DOCG status.  The 10-acre La Court vineyard, which has been in the Chiarlo family for decades, has one section of 30 to 40-year old vines and another section with 69 to 70 year old ones.  These old vines help explain the stature of the wine, which has a seemingly endless finish. Chiarlo manages to combine power and a stop you-in-your-tracks presence with suaveness.  A patina of oak adds subtle creaminess without intruding.  Drink now with robust fare or find a place in your cellar — Chiarlo’s releases from La Court develop splendidly over a decade. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 24, 2017