($29, Jenny & François Selections):  Since the prices for Côte d’Or Burgundy have gone through the roof, Burgundy lovers must look elsewhere.  The Hautes Côtes de Beaune, the hinterland really off the beaten track, is a good starting point if you can find a producer who can tame the inherent rusticity in wines from this appellation. Didier Montchovet can, judging from this white and a red (also reviewed this week).  Both mineraly and fruity, but thankfully not opulent nor filled with tropical flavors, this is a crisp and appealing Chardonnay-based wine.  Bright, balanced and precise, it’s a good choice for grilled or simply prepared fish. 91 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2017