($19, Artisanal Cellars):  Nero d’Avola, the most widely planted red grape in Sicily, makes a diverse style of wine, ranging from fruity to more savory depending on where the grape grows and the producer’s style. This one focuses on the earthy, herbal character, though there’s plenty of dark fruit flavor as well.  A big wine — it weights in at 14 percent stated alcohol — it’s not boisterous or overdone.  It suave texture makes it easy to drink now, as does the price. 94 Michael Apstein Oct 17, 2017