($29, David Bowler Wine):  Though another one of Piuze’s village Chablis comes from Fontanay, not far from Fyé, it has a very different signature, showing there are dramatic differences between the communes than make up the greater Chablis appellation.  Piuze’s 2016 Coteau de Fontanay has a touch more ripeness and roundness than his Terroir de Fyé, while maintaining an underlying and balancing vivacity and edginess.  It’s a mini Fourchaume.  These two of Piuze’s Chablis show his extraordinary talent and the complexity of the Chablis appellation.  In addition to being delicious to drink now, side-by-side they offer a fascinating trip through the subtleties of Chablis.  Next time you’re having sushi, open them both and prepare to be wowed.
90 Michael Apstein Oct 3, 2017