($22): Lugana, a small DOC just south of Lake Garda, is a treasure trove of well-priced white wines.  Le Morette’s single-vineyard Mandolara is just one example.  The grape, formerly thought to be Trebbiano di Soave (and sometimes still referred to that on labels), is Turbiano, a distinctly different variety as determined by DNA analysis.  Le Morette’s 2016 Mandolara, a youthful wine, opens beautifully after 30 minutes in the glass, revealing subtle floral aromas and a delectable balance of spice and stone fruit flavors.  It has good density throughout and zesty acidity that keeps it fresh and lively.  It would be a good match for pasta and a clam sauce.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2017