($50): As the 2015 red Burgundies begin to hit retailers’ shelves, they confirm my initial enthusiasm for this vintage.  Take, for example, this Volnay, a village wine from one of Burgundy’s top négociants.  Floral and lacey, it conveys the quintessential Burgundy characteristic that I call “flavor without weight.”  It dances on the palate amplified — not in power, but in length — by lively acidity.  Though it’s in its primary red-fruit stage, savory earthy notes peek through.  It reminds us that super enjoyable Burgundy can be found at the village level.  Engaging now with roast chicken in a mushroom sauce or grilled salmon, it has the requisite balance — and Drouhin’s skill — for wonderful development over the next decade. 90 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2017