($18): The Custoza DOC, formerly known as Bianco di Custoza, has suffered in the past from watered-down versions made by co-ops and other industrial-sized producers.  Cavalchina is trying to change the reputation and certainly will do so as more consumers taste their wines.  The grape is Garganaga, the primary grape used in Soave.  Regulations for the superiore designation require lower yields in the vineyard—more flavor in the wine — and an additional six months of aging before release.  Cavalchina’s 2015 Amedeo has a subtle creamy texture that enhances its richness.  Excellent acidity keeps it fresh and lively.  A hint of attractive bitterness in the finish reminds you this is serious wine.
91 Michael Apstein Sep 19, 2017