($100): Cuvée Louise is Pommery’s top of the line Champagne.  Made from a blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from three Grand Cru villages, the 2004 is stunning, combining power and elegance.  The elegance comes from the Chardonnay and persists throughout the extraordinary finish.  The power, from the Pinot Noir, sneaks up on you in a very pleasant way.  It’s a long and refined wine, which is hard to put down.  And, as prices go for “tête de cuvee” Champagne, as these super-premium bottlings are known, it’s a bargain.
94 Michael Apstein Sep 5, 2017