($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits):   Medici Ermete takes Lambrusco seriously, and it shows with the quality of their wines.  This one, named Concerto, is the first single vineyard Lambrusco produced.  It’s made entirely from Lambrusco Salamino grown on their Rampata estate.  Ermes Scardova, their export director for the U.S.A. and Canada, says their yields are roughly half of the legal maximum, which helps explain why the wine is so good.  Compared to their delightful, i Quercioli Lambrusco, Concerto is just more elegant, with finer bubbles and a more suave texture.  It’s “friendly” rather than sweet.  More darkly colored than you’d expect from a wine made from Lambrusco Salamino, Scardova explains that it receives more skin contact during fermentation.  If you’ve not had a Lambrusco recently, you must try this one.  It will open your eyes to the category.  Their Concerto has awarded “Tre Bicchieri” 8 times in a row from Gambero Rosso, Italy’s leading wine guide.  After tasting it, I see why.  It’s a great choice for Indian or other spicy food, BBQ, or ribs this summer.
90 Michael Apstein Jul 25, 2017