($65, Frederick Wildman & Sons): Sarmassa is a well-regarded cru located in the village of Barolo itself, an area where the wines are allegedly more delicate, relatively speaking (this is Barolo, after all) compared to those from Serralunga d’Alba or Montforte d’Alba.  Marchesi di Barolo’s fine Sarmassa has a bit of Montforte-like structure to accompany its floral aspect.  Almost chewy with firm, fine tannins, it remains incredibly elegant, capturing the best of both worlds.  Its charms appeared sitting it the glass for a couple of hours over dinner, surprising me at how enjoyable it was to drink now.  With a seemingly endless finish and balance, it will reward a decade or so of cellaring.
93 Michael Apstein Jul 25, 2017