($21, The Sorting Table): Pecorino, the wine, not the cheese, is currently “hot,” which is surprising considering it was practically extinct as a grape variety as recently as two decades ago. Now there are probably 60 producers on the bandwagon. Although I’ve not sampled them all, it’s hard to imagine finding one better than Tiberio’s. (The grape likely gets its name from sheep herders who ate them while tending their flocks.) Its semi-aromatic quality delivers a mixture of nutty and herbal aromas. In the mouth, it has good density and a seductive slightly creamy texture. Rich without being heavy, zippy acidity keeps it fresh and you coming back for more. It’s a star!
93 Michael Apstein Jul 18, 2017