($18): It’s easy to understand why Sartarelli, one of the region’s top producers, calls the wine Tralivio, which means around the olive trees, instead of using the tongue-twisting name of the DOC.  Wines made from Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi are undergoing a renaissance as producers realize that the focus should be on quality over quantity.  Indeed, the Verdicchio grape has the potential to make wines that evolve with bottle age as well as a wine, such as this one, that is enticing to drink now. Its density comes from the grape because Sartarelli opts to avoid oak during vinification and aging.   Weighty, yet not over ripe, brilliant acidity keeps you coming back for another sip.  This wine will make you rethink your idea of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi.
92 Michael Apstein Jun 13, 2017