($17, Winebow): Lugana, a tiny appellation on the southern side of Lake Garda, is having a renaissance and Zenato, one of the area’s largest and best producers, has been responsible for it.  These zesty white wines are made primarily from the Turbiana grape (a.k.a. Trebbiano di Soave or Trebbiano di Lugana).  The grape is naturally high in acidity, which is why the wines in general, and Zenato’s in particular, are so cutting and refreshing.  Zenato’s San Benedetto conveys a hint of pepper-like spice that perfectly balances the subtle tropical fruit flavors in this mid-weight white.  Invigorating citrus notes makes this a perfect choice for the summer.
90 Michael Apstein May 2, 2017