($49): A tiny — just over 350 acres — DOCG, Castelli di Jesi Verdicchio Classico Riserva was carved out of the larger Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC in 2010. (They changed the name — putting the geographic name, Castelli di Jesi, before Verdicchio, the name of the grape — a year later, in 2011.) The Verdicchio grape, which means the “little green one,” is part of the Trebbiano family and is identical to Trebbiano di Soave. In the hills around the town of Jesi, this inherently high-acid grape conveys captivating flavors. Villa Bucci, a top producer in the region, transformed the grape into a superb, exciting mid-weight wine that combines a delicate fruitiness and a haunting minerality. This is a sophisticated wine that will enhance the meal the next time you’re grilling fish.
93 Michael Apstein May 2, 2017