($28, Louis Latour USA): Chablis remains, in my mind, the most undervalued area for top white wine. And for those looking for “unoaked Chardonnay,” it is that style’s birthplace. Maison Louis Latour, one of Burgundy’s top producers, acquired Simonnet-Febrve, a house established in 1840, in 2003 and a year later installed Jean-Philippe Archambaud as managing director. Under his leadership, Simonnet-Febrve has catapulted into the top rank of Chablis producers. They made an exquisite line-up of Chablis in 2014. This Premier Cru Vaillons has an appealing flowery component accenting its minerality and balanced by riveting acidity. What a bargain!
92 Michael Apstein Mar 14, 2017