($19): This category of wine grabbed headlines in 1987, more because of surprise than stature, when it was awarded Italy’s first DOCG for a white wine.  Known then as Albana di Romagna, there was a collective bewilderment since many other white wine DOCs seemed more appropriate for elevation to Italy’s highest level of classification.  Just having tasted two-dozen Romagna Albana Secco, I see the wisdom of the Italian wine authorities — this is an appealing and unique category of white wine.  This one is what so many “orange” wines aspire to.  Pale yellow, it conveys real substance and texture, even a hint of tangerine skin, buttressed by bright and racy acidity.  Try it with a hefty seafood stew.
93 Michael Apstein Feb 28, 2017