($300): Bouchard Père et Fils, owns over 1/3 of this Grand Cru vineyard that sits just above Le Montrachet, making them its largest owner. Their roughly 6.5-acres are located in all four terraces of the vineyard, which helps explain why their Chevalier-Montrachet is so complex. Each terrace has slightly difference soil and exposure so they vinify the parcels separately and then blend them to create a single wine, according to winemaker Frédéric Weber. Bouchard’s 2014 Chevalier-Montrachet is both explosive and elegant. Rich and steely, it’s a study in paradox. Seemingly endless, it continues to dazzle the palate after you swallow. (It’s one of those wines that you can’t spit at a tasting.) So, if you’re a 1-percenter or have just won the lottery, here’s a wine for you. Based on Bouchard’s track record with Chevalier-Montrachet, I’d cellar the 2014 for at least a decade.
98 Michael Apstein Jan 10, 2017