($32, Savio Soares Selections): It’s hard to determine from the importer’s website whether Le Clos de Lys is actually a single vineyard or a proprietary name for a wine that comes from several parcels in Morgon. No matter, the wine is excellent and reinforces my opinion that the cru of Beaujolais will be the next hot area for French wine. This Morgon has a firm earthiness — a sign of serious wine — not the grapey signature all too often associated with Beaujolais. As though to emphasize that distinction, the word Beaujolais does not appear on either the front or back label. It’s an ideal choice for a long simmered chicken and mushroom dish this winter.
92 Michael Apstein Jan 3, 2017