($20): I only became acquainted with Frédéric Berne’s Beaujolais during my annual trip to Burgundy last November. Based on my tasting of his 2014s, I would try anything he makes. He, like many of the top producers in Beaujolais, is raising the bar in that region by identifying vineyards within the cru (the 10 towns that produce the most distinctive wines) that have unique terroir and are capable of making superior wines. Corcellette is one such site in Morgon. The 2014 vintage in Beaujolais, while not receiving the hype of the 2015, is excellent and many consumers will prefer it to the more flamboyant 2015s. Berne’s Morgon Corcelette is firm without being austere and focuses on that elusive mineral quality rather than over fruitiness. This is great Beaujolais and shows that the region is capable of producing real wine, not just grapey Nouveau. Try it with a hearty stew this winter.
92 Michael Apstein Dec 27, 2016