($20, Cru Artisan):  The wines from Colline Teramane, Abruzzo’s only DOCG, fly under the radar for some inexplicable reason, which makes them a bargain for consumers.  Since they’re rarely seen on wine lists, even in the trendiest wine bars, it remains for savvy consumers to try them on their own, at home.  This small DOCG has several valleys that run east-west, allowing cooling weather from the Adriatic to drop the temperatures at night, which allows the grapes to hold their acidity, which in turn gives freshness to the wines.  The Cerulli Spinozzi family has been growing grapes for decades, but only started bottling their own wine about 15 years ago.  In a short time, they have become one of the leading producers of Colline Teramane.  Their 2011, still young, has all the trappings of a great wine, combining earthy tarriness with elegance. Powerful, without being jammy or over ripe, bright acidity keeps it fresh, and you coming back for another sip between bites of robust pasta.  They have managed to polish and refine the sometimes “wild” character of the Montepulciano grape without eviscerating it.  Having experience with how their wines age, I am confident that the 2011 will be even more complex and enjoyable in a few years–if you can keep your hands off it. 93 Michael Apstein Oct 11, 2016