($57, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): The 2013 vintage in Burgundy was difficult because rain during the harvest had the potential to swell the grapes, diluting them and the wine.  Plus, dampness during harvest is a set up for rot.  But talented producer, such as Louis Jadot, makes excellent wines even in “difficult” years.  They just make less of them because they discard unsuitable grapes.  Though Jadot is one of Burgundy’s most iconic négociants — that is, they buy grapes from growers, make the wine and bottle under their name — this particularly attractive one comes from what are essentially their own vineyards.  The indication, Domaine Gagey, on the label indicates that the Gagey family — Pierre Henry Gagey is the President of Maison Louis Jadot — owns the vineyard.  The wine has a lovely delicacy that belies its persistence.  It delivers flavor without weight.  The balanced combination of red fruit-like flavors and savory notes makes it a quintessential Burgundy.  I would prefer to cellar it for a few years, though if you twisted my arm, I’d happily drink it tonight with a grilled veal chop.
92 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2016