($20, Kobrand Wine & Spirits): Lovely wine, dreadful label.  I rarely comment about a wine’s label.  After all, it’s what’s in the bottle that counts.  And in that category, this wine is easy to recommend.  The problem is that the script on the label makes it almost impossible to figure out the name of the producer, so buying it is likely to be difficult.  Still, it’s worth the struggle because its clean, saline-tinged character gives a good introduction to what the Albariño grape can do in Rias Baixas.  Cutting and precise, with the barest hint of an attractive prickly sensation on the palate, it’s a good choice for flavorful seafood preparations.
89 Michael Apstein Oct 4, 2016