($11, Prestige Wine Imports): Stemmari works wonders with indigenous Sicilian varieties, such as Grillo.  This one delivers an emblematic, ever so slightly bitter, saline component that makes it a delightful match for hearty seafood, perhaps in a tomato-based sauce, but less useful as a stand-alone aperitif.  Its clean, bracing acidity allows it to hold up throughout a meal, even against robust dishes.  Here’s a wine for the next time you make spaghetti putanesca.  Your palate does not tire of it, which is an extraordinary accomplishment for a wine of this price.
88 Michael Apstein Sep 6, 2016