($70, Montcalm Wine Imports): This wine dispels any notion that truly great wines are not made in Abruzzo from the Montepulciano grape.  Yes, the nomenclature is confusing: Montepulciano, the grape, has nothing to do with Montepulciano the village in Tuscany known for Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, which uses the Sangiovese grape.  Colline Teramane is Abruzzo’s sole DOCG, which is the highest classification for quality in Italy.  But working through the label and pulling the cork gives grand rewards in this case.  The wine, packaged in one of those over-sized bottles, is like the bottle itself — oversized, but with extraordinary refinement.  It’s majestic, yet not overdone. Its grace is even more amazing considering its power.  The fine tannins and patina of oak imparts a luxurious texture.  You feel the effects of oak aging without tasting it.  The focus is on subtle earthy notes, herbs and other savory nuances rather than ripe fruit.  The hint of bitterness in the finish makes it an ideal choice for a hearty lamb dish.
95 Michael Apstein Aug 16, 2016