($10, Prestige Wine Imports): Inexpensive rosés are popping up all over — like mushrooms after a rain — in response to enormous consumer demand for the pink drink. Consumers need care in choosing because many of these “value” wines turn out to be no value at all, which makes this one from Sicily all the more enjoyable. At first blush — no pun intended — you’d think Sicily is too warm to be home to an energetic bright wine. But Stemmari harvests the grapes early, preserving acidity, which translates into vibrancy in the wine that amplifies its refreshing charm. It has far more complexity and body than I’d expect for a wine of this price.
90 Michael Apstein Aug 9, 2016