($19): Though Saint Bris, an obscure part of Burgundy adjacent to Chablis, shares the same Kimmeridgian limestone as that famous appellation, it must use Sauvignon Blanc — not Chardonnay — for its wines. Grape variety not withstanding, the Goisot family works magic at their domaine.  Their Exogyra Virgula, named for the oyster shells in the soil, is riveting and cutting.   Reflecting the soil, it delivers a bright minerality, rather than a grassy herbaceousness. It’s a bargain, so buy it by the case for this summer.
92 Michael Apstein Jul 12, 2016